Precious stones have captivated cultures around the world for centuries. Their rare beauty is irresistible- which makes us easy targets for a well-executed advertising campaign. I write to offer you some unbiased information about birthstones, with the hope of helping you to personalize your jewelry shopping experience.
Let’s begin with a bombshell revelation that may (not) surprise you. The association of a birthstone with a particular month is a commercial marketing opportunity that has been stealthily impressed upon us by the gem industry. But they do not deserve the credit for the origin of this crafty plan. They simply repackaged an association that humans have had with precious stones for hundreds and even thousands of years.
Throughout our history, the mystical properties of particular gems were associated with the twelve signs of the zodiac, the twelve-month calendar, and the Bible. The very first birthstone chart comes from the 1450 BC Book of Exodus. The stone for each person varies- depending on the source. For example- a person born in March has the birthstone of Aquamarine, but will also have the fortunate gems of diamond and bloodstone if they are the astrological sign of Aries.
I would like you to consider freeing yourself from the confines of this long and tangled history, so that you can buy a piece of jewelry with a stone that you love instead of one that was randomly assigned to you. Not all birthstones were created equal as you are about to find out. Some are delicate, and do not wear well in certain types of jewelry. And yes, some are much prettier than others. So, take the following list of birthstone assignments from the 2009 Gemological Institute of America with a grain of salt, and do what you like. Let’s get to it.
January- Garnet. Garnets have been coveted gems for more than 5,000 years. The name garnet comes from the Latin word for grain, or seed, which may have referred to garnets’ similarity to pomegranate seeds. The group of gemstones contained in the garnet family vary in color, blend and hardness. Almandine Garnet is one of the two most common varieties- and are likely the ones that you think of when you hear the word. This type is a dark red violet, with the highest quality garnets being a bright ruby red. Garnets have long been associated with protection from evil, as well as for their perceived healing powers. Almandine Garnet has a Mohs scale hardness of 7-7.5, which makes it durable enough for everyday wear in your jewelry.
February-Amethyst Amethyst is the coveted purple variety of the most abundantly occurring mineral species on the earth’s continental crust- which is quartz crystal. The color of Amethyst varies in shades of purple, and mauve- or reddish purple. The name amethyst interestingly comes from the Greek word a-methustos which means “not intoxicated”, - as historically amethyst was erroneously believed to cure drunkenness. Amethyst wears well in everyday jewelry and ranks as a respectably durable 7 on the Mohs scale of hardness.
March-Aquamarine- The stone for March is blue beryl, more commonly known as Aquamarine which is derived from the Latin name “aqua mare” or water of the sea. Stones are usually clear, and free from inclusions. This stone forms in shades of blue ranging from sky to dark. The highest quality aquamarine stones are a cool sea blue. This stone rates a strong 7.5-8 on the Mohs scale of hardness which translates as a durable stone for everyday wear.
April- Diamond- Diamonds were historically believed to enhance the husband’s love of his wife. The custom of wearing an engagement ring on the left hand may have come from the ancient Roman idea that the vein in the left-handed ring finger connected directly to the heart. Diamonds are associated with protection from evil, as well as attracting power & good luck, and preventing old age. As you may know, diamonds are the hardest natural substance known in the universe, so measure as a 10 on the Mohs scale of hardness- but can still be subject to damage by fracture.
May- Emerald- Known in academic circles as green beryl, only the intense green Beryl qualify as emeralds. The highest quality of pure green emeralds are considered to be rarer and more valuable than the highly coveted colorless diamond. Emeralds have been associated with a protective quality, as well as supposedly increasing the wearer’s powers of persuasion. Most emeralds contain small cracks, or inclusions- which determines their value on a graded scale. While emeralds rank as a 7.5-8 on the Mohs scale of hardness, they are brittle. Therefore, care must be taken while wearing emerald jewelry- particularly rings.
June -Pearl- The origin of naturally occurring pearls is a poetic reaction to an irritant, as oysters or clams attempt to rid themselves of an invasive element which can be as small as a grain of sand. They cover the irritant with layers of Nacre which eventually forms a pearl. The color of pearls ranges from white to gold, and black. High-quality pearls are classified by a uniform round shape, consistent color, blemish-free appearance, and a size of 9 mm or larger. Pearls have historically symbolized wealth, been known to attract love, and help cure a variety of ailments ranging from insomnia to measles. Pearls are soft, and easily damaged- and rate poorly on the Mohs scale- ranging from 2.5 to 4. They are best worn as earrings or a necklace- as they could not withstand the damaging elements they’d encounter on a bracelet or ring.
July- Ruby. The color of rubies varies from pink to the most valuable (but unappetizingly named) pigeon-blood red. Rubies are a diamond’s closest rival in the most important aspects; durability, and rarity. Fine rubies are much rarer than the elusive colorless diamond. Rubies have long been a symbol of wealth and passion, as well as protection from misfortune, and illness. Rubies are a power player on the Mohs scale of hardness- with a near-perfect rating of 9.
August- Peridot- also known in some scholarly circles as Green Olivine, Peridot originates from volcanic rock. It has been mined for 3,500 years, and was greatly prized by the image-conscious royalty of ancient Egypt. Color ranges from emerald to olive green, and the most valuable specimens are nearly free of inclusions. Peridot rates as a mid-range 6.5-7 on the Mohs scale for hardness.
September- Sapphire. Less commonly known as Corundum, Sapphires form in a variety of beautiful blues, depending on the amount of Titanium and Iron present. The name comes from the Greek word sapir which simply means blue. The most valuable Sapphire is a soft vivid “cornflower blue.” Sapphires are mined all over the world- including an important deposit found right here in Montana. Sapphires have been regarded as a symbol of truth, protection, and healing. Sapphires rate beautifully on the Mohs scale of hardness, as a very durable 9.
October- Opal. Opal presents in three varieties- precious white, precious black, and fire opals. These unimaginative names do not even begin to describe the complexity of colors in each type. The showy range of red, blue, green, yellow, and orange found in a high-quality specimen make the black opal the most valuable variety. Historically, opals represented hope and purity in ancient Rome, and assisted aboriginal Shamans travel the dream world in search of higher understanding. Opals rate as a modest 5.5-6.5 on the Mohs scale of hardness, but contain a relatively high water content which can dry out, and crack over time. Careful storage, and the avoidance of strong solvents help to preserve one of the world’s most beautiful gems.
November Topaz- Topaz is one of two birthstones for November. Primarily sourced in Brazil, Topaz occurs in crystals that can weigh 90 pounds or more. The most common variations are colorless and blue. The rarest type is Imperial Topaz- which can be found in orange, pink, and the most desirable of all - red. Greeks believed that blue topaz could make you invisible, while the Romans felt it improved an individual’s eyesight. Topaz is the hardest, and therefore most durable of all of the silicate crystals in the land and ranks as an 8 on the Mohs scale.
December -Turquoise- Before turquoise became the star of the modern Santa Fe jewelry scene, Zuni, Navajo, and Apache had been mining turquoise in the southwest for centuries. Turquoise was also used in ancient Egypt for burial sculptures, and masks dating back 8,000 years. Turquoise is one of the oldest known gemstones to be collected, and coveted by civilizations around the world. Despite its popularity, turquoise is composed of an average of 18-20% water- which puts it at risk for damage in extreme heat, or harsh conditions. Turquoise also measures at Mohs 5-6 which is a bit softer than other stones. Therefore, precautions must be taken with turquoise jewelry- especially if the stone is in a ring, as it might be exposed to perilous conditions like hot dishwater, and hard objects that could crack or damage it.
Here's a few more that are not officially recognized as birthstones by the American Gem Society- but have been wildly popular in different cultures throughout history.
Black onyx has historically been valued for its healing properties and the promotion of physical and emotional well-being. It was also thought to provide protection in times of war. Onyx rates as a 7 on the Mohs scale of hardness which wears well in everyday jewelry, but it is porous- so avoid the use of soap, or cleaning solutions to prevent absorption.
Carnelian is a translucent reddish orange. The ancient Greek and Roman civilizations discovered that sealing wax did not stick to Carnelian- thus making it a popular decorative option for sealing rings. It is also thought to promote courage, creativity, and vitality. Carnelian also rates as a reasonable 7 on the Mohs scale of hardness- making it durable enough for everyday wear as a ring or bracelet.
Both Onyx and Carnelian are members of the chalcedony branch of the widespread Quartz family.
Lapis is a blue metamorphic rock which is comprised of a mixture of minerals, including: lazurite, pyrite, and calcite- among others. In order to be classified as "lapis lazuli," it must be distinctly blue in color and contain at least 25% blue lazurite. Though individual taste varies, the most desirable combination is a deep rich blue with a sprinkling of golden pyrite. Lapis rates as fair on the Mohs scale of hardness – though individual hardness varies based on the combination of minerals present- from 3 of calcite to the 5.5 of lazurite- which means it is best worn as earrings, in a necklace, or as a broach or pin.
I hope you have found this information useful. Although I am a silversmith, I use stones sparingly in my jewelry. I am often asked about them, which is what prompted me to write this groundbreaking exposé. Usually, people are concerned with finding the “correct” birthstone- often for someone else- like a grandchild. It seems much more fitting to choose the color of stone that someone loves, as it is a much more accurate representation of who they are. Thank you for joining me here!
deva
**IMPORTANT NOTE* *. The information I have provided above is a summary gleaned from my own research with the use of several reliable sources which I list below.
Grande, Lance and Allison Augustyn. Gems and Gemstones- Timeless Natural Beauty of the Mineral World. University of Chicago Press, Ltd., 2009
https://www.americangemsociety.org/birthstones/
